Not For The Thick Skinned

Having worked in the beauty business for the last four years has allowed me the opportunity to meet and converse with so many beauty professionals nationwide.

I was recently enlightened by a board certified plastic and reconstructive surgeon from the Greater San Diego area, Dr. John G. Apostolides.

We had  brief  Q&A about a couple of things; I mainly picked his brain about Keloids and why women of multicultural descent are more prone to developing them post surgery, compared to those of European descent.

My exact question was:

Why is it that women with heavily pigmented complexions are more prone to keloid scarring than those of European descent?

His insight:

“Keloids are much more common in women and men of multicultural descent. Although even in those patients, true keloids are rare. Most people of multicultural descent who think they have “Keloids” actually have hypertrophic scars, which are just scars that are somewhat thicker and more raised. Keloids are scars that actually grow beyond the borders of the initial incision or injury. There are many reasons for the difference in scarring, many causes are not known. One main reason is the inner layer of skin, the dermis, in people of multicultural descent is thicker. This causes them to heal with more scar tissue. The downside is increased chance of thicker scars, although the majority of people heal normally. The upside is the thicker skin allows them to age “less” or more gracefully due to more resilient and elastic skin.”

The last sentence is a bit enlightening. If you read the entire paragraph, take note that he said “… thicker skin allows them to age “less” or more gracefully due to more resilient and elastic skin.” That’s right! You’ve heard the saying, “Minority women age more  gracefully” Yep, it’s true.

Back on track. Now, an overview…

A keloid is the term given to the prominent, irregular scar tissue, which sometimes forms after a person has suffered some sort of trauma to the skin. Usually, a “bump” appears at the site of the injury, after surgery or from another form of scarring taken place, such as a piercing.

A keloid can also develop without injury to the skin. It is definitely more common in African Americans than any other nationality, however Indians and Chinese develop keloids as well, just not as often and with thinner scarring.

Prevention, Prevention, Prevention!

One of the most important things someone can do to prevent the formation of keloids is to properly care for skin abrasions and cuts. It’s important to remember that any cut that is deep enough, requires stitches and should be stitched promptly. Many people will put a dressing over the cut and allow it to remain open. In these cases, a keloid is likely to develop  or become infected. It is important for doctors to carefully suture the wound and to avoid damage to the surrounding skin in the suturing process.

Treatment

Keloids are never life threatening. Rather, they are considered cosmetic. One’s appearance is important, however, and keloids are problematic from this perspective.

The treatment of keloids will vary. Some people believe that if the keloid is cut out all will be fine. Many times, however, the keloid will return larger than it was before. Doctors have, therefore, developed several ways to treat keloids:

1. Injection of the keloid with steroid solutions. Steroids have the effect of causing tissues to become atrophic (thin). This is a known side effect of steroids that we are using to our advantage when we inject the keloids with the steroid solution.

2. Surgery of the keloid with use of steroid injections. In this case, we still inject the keloid for several weeks prior to the surgery. Then, we surgically remove the keloid material and the wound is carefully sutured. Steroids are again injected and continued for several weeks thereafter.

3. Surgery of the keloid followed by radiation therapy. In this case, patients receive superficial radiation to the affected area. This may be a good option in some cases.

4. Lately, there has been the development of pressure to treat keloids. Scientists have developed a type of sheeting called silastic gel which is applied to the keloid and kept in place with tape. The silastic gel is applied at night for several months and it flattens the keloid.

5. Additionally, a newer therapy involving tape impregnated with steroids has been used. The tape is applied to the keloid and the steroid is slowly released. Overtime, the keloid thins.

Empowerment Points

  • Keloids are very common in Black people throughout the world.
  • Keloids usually occur after a person has suffered a cut or scratch to the skin.
  • The resulting scar tissue is thickened and often unsightly.
  • There are a variety of treatment options available and your dermatologist will be happy to discuss them with you.

Treating keloids can be challenging, but good results can be obtained!


Pregnancy & Pigment; Not Quite a Picnic

This posting is dedicated to those who have either gone through, are currently going through, or are soon to be going through it; PREGNANCY. Pigment plus pregnancy isn’t quite a picnic.

You’ve read about how expectant mothers are reported to radiate some sort of glow when carrying their bun in the oven.  Well the tabloids and beauty magazines fail to mention the realistic elements of early motherhood. It’s really more to the story than just a glow. Although, I can’t empathize with women who have or are currently carrying, but I have done alot of research and read many articles about the changes a woman’s skin goes through during pregnancy.

If you’ve been lucky enough to maintain balanced skin throughout your life, pray to the good skin gods that it stays that way for the remainder of your “hosting”. It is indeed a luxury to live a life free of breakouts and malasma. Unfortunately pregnancy may just be the milestone from hell, thanks to those rambunctious hormones; the leading culprit of physical, mental and emotional stresses. Hormones just seem to wreak havoc on your face.

In addition to facial freak-outs, other problem areas for expectant mothers tend to be near the mouth. Glycolic acid or alpha hydroxyl acids can aid in ridding the pesky problem but by all means, do avoid products containing benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid or retinoids, which should be condemned during pregnancy. Women should avoid using these types of products due to the risk of passing it into the blood stream of the mother, mixing in the breast milk, which could harm the child.

Also, something to keep in mind is that skin tends to be a bit dryer than usual too, during pregnancy, especial in the stomach area. I’ve suggested using a combination of coconut oil and olive oil all over the body (except on your face), and seem to work really well to offset dry skin (in the winter months only). 

Other areas of concern may be the abdomen or chest area where stretch marks are prone to develop. Almond and coconut oils are great choices as well as Shea and cocoa butters for stretch mark prevention. These solutions only aid in alleviating the marks, I don’t believe they can be banished entirely without invasive cosmetic procedures.

Hope this helps. 😛

Why Your Gym Should Have a Sauna

Now that the holidays are over, it’s time to re-charge and relax. The weather is cold, the temperatures are frigid and your skin‘s texture may feel dryer than usual.

I can help with that.

With it being four days into the new year, I’m sure many of you jumped on the “I’m- going-to-the-gym” bandwagon. So, if weight loss is part of your new year’s resolution, your gym membership should come with an incentive; a sauna.

If you’re gonna work that body, be sure to flex your beauty after. Believe it or not, it’s good to sweat.  In fact, try to sweat your ass off as often as possible. Whether it be during a workout or in a sauna; sweat.  Sweat is a pretty girl’s best friend, no matter how disgusting it is.  Post workout, follow up with a protein shake.

Why sauna?

Saunas have a reputation for relaxation and skin health benefits. It allows the body to detoxify itself from chemicals and toxins we take in on a daily basis.

There are different types of saunas, indeed. Top tier saunas are the infrared options.

Skin is the bodies largest organ, and it’s exposed to harsh elements all day, everyday, no matter where we are. An important skin fact is that about 30% of toxins are removed through the pores, which is done primarily through sweating. Most toxins are stored just below the skin’s surface.

Once in a sauna, it takes about two minutes to heat up the skin. This is when the detox begins to occur. Pores open, then the sweating starts. Depending on how much heat you can withstand, stay in until you sweat profusely, but if you’re in too long, you may become dizzy, so be careful. (It’s happened to me)

Another benefit is the boosting of your heart rate. Who said you can’t do cardio and not move a muscle??? #Liars. Yes, whenever the rate of your heart beat increases, it burns calories, increasing lung capacity and can may contribute to better sleeping patterns.  (The more sleep, the better.)

When in a sauna, skin heats and wants to cool itself. With the increased blood flow in the body, skin begins to receive more blood flow up to 50%. Compare this to 5-10% of normal blood flow and you can see it’s a big jump.With increased blood flow comes more oxygen and nutrients to the skin. This leaves your skin looking rejuvenated and healthy. Most sauna health benefits are tied to this increase in blood flow and overall body temperature increase.

Got acne, eczema, scrapes and cuts? Continue to read… Even if you don’t… Read it anyway…

If you suffer from any skin imperfections such as acne, eczema, and even scrapes and cuts increased blood circulation and the production of healthy blood cells can speed up the healing process. Regular sauna bathing is a good idea to aid in difficult skin conditions. Heat softens bumps, forcing them to slowly come to a head ( still refrain from picking it).

Overall, spending sometime in a sauna is a positive thing for the appearance of our skin. Whether it’s an infrared sauna, or one powered by steam the heat effects our skin in similar fashion by opening our pores and helping us to detoxify and supply more nutrients and oxygen to our skin.

The best time to sauna is after a good workout. If you’re using a public sauna, I’d suggest stripping all the way naked, but wrap yourself in a towel at least and keep your undies on. If it’s a personal sauna, go all the way bare, and use a towel for laying; the wood can get really hot. Stay in for a minimum of 20 minutes, making sure not to exceed 40 minutes for maximum benefit. I like to sauna 3-4 days a week.

Post-sauna solutions

When you step out of the sauna, make sure to cleanse and moisturize your skin. This keeps pores clear and removes harmful bacteria.

  • Body:
      • Use a gentle body cleanser; whether gel or bar soap.
      • Follow your cleanser with a body  moisturizer for continued hydration, softening and if need be, healing.
  • Face:
      • Use a cleanser to remove impurities (such as bacteria) and excess oil.  If you have drier skin or a combination complexion,use a targeted product that is appropriate for your skin type. It should gently exfoliate the skin, kill bacteria and controls oiliness.
      • Apply moisturizer.

Additional safety tips 

Here are a few tips to keep you safe when using a sauna:

    • Drink plenty of water before entering a sauna as well as after to prevent dehydration from sweating.
    • Skip the sauna if you’re sick.
    • Avoid alcohol right before, during and after a sauna session. It has a dehydrating effect and can cause your body to overheat.
    • Shower after exercise, before you enter the sauna. That’s because sauna heat can trigger yeast growth on warm, sweaty, oily skin.
    • Stay away from saunas if you have sensitive skin or certain skin conditions. Because saunas dry out the skin, they exacerbate eczema and atopic dermatitis. Also, saunas aggravate rosacea, because the heat dilates blood vessels.
    • Refrain from sauna use if you’re pregnant.

How to Wear Red, Right

Feeling fiery this holiday season?  Choose a bold, fierce red that compliments pigmented complexions.

I’ve recently experimented with Illamasqua’s Box, which is really is nice for the daytime, or even a swipe of Shiseido Perfect Rouge in Dragon.

Maybeline Color Sensational Lipcolor, too as a runner up. It’s great that this brand is accommodating to all budgets.

Illamasqua Lipstick in Box, available at sephora.com, $22; Shiseido Perfect Rouge in Dragon, available at shiseido.com, $25; Maybelline Color Sensational Lipcolor in Are You Red-dy, available at ulta.com, $7.

For the ladies with deeper skin tones,  get red-dy with a wine- and brown-based reds.  Case in point: Shiseido Perfect Rouge in Mystery on Everywhere editor Tiffany Davis.

Available at shiseido.com, $25.

Use a bright color to make your lips pop; experiment with Make Up For Ever Rouge Artist Intense in 44 and Shu Uemura Rouge Unlimited Supreme Shine in Universal Red. For a more subtle look, apply a burgundy, such as MAC Sheen Supreme Lipstick in Good to be Bad or Buxom Big & Healthy Lip Stick in Barcelona.

Make Up For Ever Rouge Artist Intense in 44, available at sephora.com, $19; Shu Uemura Rouge Unlimited Supreme Shine in Universal Red, available at shuuemura-usa.com, $30; MAC Sheen Supreme Lipstick in Good to Be Bad, available at maccosmetics.com, $14.50; Buxom Big & Healthy Lip Stick in Barcelona, available at sephora.com, $18.

Pucker up and paint the town red. Happy holidays! 🙂

philosophy Skin Care Awarded Top Beauty Honors

No wonder it’s a winner. It’s a gift in every “present”

“the present” invisible make-up, attributes to why it’s awarded prestigious beauty honors.

philosophy, a brand that approaches personal care from a skin care point of view, made headlines in 2011 when they received nine beauty awards in top national women’s publications. beauty editors, consumers and industry experts alike honored philosophy for exemplary product formulations and cutting-edge innovations… continue 

Eye (spy a) Brow

“To conquer a fear feels so good, but to conquer it beyond expectation feels even greater” -Me.

This past weekend I conquered a fear; I contoured my own eyebrows.

I’ve been waxing every other body-part on myself and others since 2008, but refused to groom anyone’s brows, including my own. I don’t know where I got this vigorous surge of confidence from, but this past Saturday, I woke up and decided to wax, trim and contour my brows. Good thing I did, now I’ll be saving an additional $12 a month on brow maintenance; a whole $144 a year. #winning

When I would get asked “Do you do eyebrows?” I would shamefully shy away from answering the question. I’d timidly say “No” and when asked why, I could never give a straight answer. Truth is, I know how meticulous women can be about the shape of their eyebrows. As I am a very fussy woman and anal about everything, I only assumed everyone else was as fussy a woman as myself and if I made one wrong pluck, I would quit, never to think of doing it again. I’ve chewed other estheticians out for not “doing as I requested” and I didn’t want to be the recipient of anyone else’s “chew out”.

But then I thought, “What real esthetician doesnt wax eyebrows?” That’s  incomplete, it doesn’t make any sense.

So while holding wax in one hand and a brow brush in the other, I went for it, vowing to create a compliment, not a catastrophe. And I did it. Voila… here’s the end result.


A witty woman is a treasure; a witty beauty is a power.

Do You Pluck to Save a Buck?

Bold. Thick. Thin. Dark. Bushy. Full. Defined. Beautiful.

All of these words define the eyebrows.  Perfectly groomed brows are attributes of an aesthetically pleasing woman. The eyebrow is a crucial component of having the “it stuff” or the “wow factor”. It’s simple to undersatnd how one follicle too many, could be a facial monstrosity, but on the contrary, the right hairs removed in the right place, can easily enhance your look.

The shape of  your eyebrows should shape your face and be nothing less than flattering. However, plenty of women abuse their eyebrows because they can’t help but be habitual “pluckers”. ::Shame on you::

One important piece of advice: If you’re going to pluck ’em, DON’T over do it.

If you must, tweeze carefully and sparingly, because the hairs you pluck will take several weeks to come back.

It’s important not to overpluck your eyebrows, because they grow back slower than hairs in other parts of the body.

I get why some prefer tweezing over waxing; my guess is that it’s less painful? More economical? Well when you’ve been doing it so long, waxing is no longer painful. It simply turns from a pain to a pinch. Plucking is the least expensive method for shaping eyebrows, but not everyone can do it themselves. #butcheredbrows. Aside from all of that, plucking just hurts. It’s kind of an  annoying pain from pulling off a band-aid slowly, instead of all at once.

Keep in mind that eyebrows that are too thick, will give you a harsh look.

Too thin brows will make you look old.

Unnatural looking penciled in or drawn on brows, just look damn ridiculous.

And lastly, unibrows are not flattering; you’ll look like you belong on the set of Bert and Ernie, as Bert’s kid sister.

Over time, frequent tweezing can cause the hair follicle to become damaged, stunted and/or retard future hair growth. To me, tweezing just seems so tedious and tiresome, especially if you’re overly meticulous.

The quality of tweezers also contributes to a tweezing’s pass or fail. Good tweezers can be pretty pricey. I bought a pair of beauty industry leader,  Damon Roberts’ (@DamoneRoberts) tweezers for $28 on his website at http://www.damoneroberts.com and they still work perfectly. I rarely use them, but when I do, they’re always precise and on point. FYI; the average cost of  quality tweezers is between $20 and $40, depending on your budget. 

Last bit of advice.

If you’re going to do your own eyebrows, (which I don’t recommend) try and follow this guide.

#1.  Hold a pencil vertically against the side of your nose and where it meets the brow is where your brow should start.

#2. While still holding the pencil against the side of your nose, turn it diagonally, pointing towards the outer corner of your eye until the pencil meets the iris of your eye.  Where the pencil meets the brow (somewhere along your brow bone) is where the peak of your arch should start.

#3. From this position and while still holding the pencil against the side of your nose, turn it some more at a wider angle until the pencil meets the outer corner of your eye.  Where the end of the pencil now meets the eyebrow is your eyebrow’s ending point.

Voila…like so.

Shaving is for the Boys

Ladies, ladies, ladies. How many of us are guilty of shaving? If I could organize a “Shavers Anonymous Meeting”, I swear I would. I understand the whole purpose of shaving but let me remind you, there are far better hair removal options available to you.

If you knew better, you’d do better. (Hell, some of you do and still don’t)

Everything has pros and cons, however when it comes to shaving, there are far more cons than there are pros.

Pros:

  • Shaving is simple, quick and easy. If in a rush and need to go bare instantly, you can easily do so.
  • Compared to waxing, it is painless epilation. Some women cannot tolerate the pain when the hair is eradicated by waxing.
  • Shaving is inexpensive. You don’t need anything else apart from a razor, shaving foam or body wash.
  • It’s a great timesaver; no appointment required.

Cons

  • Lasts almost 3 days (if that).
  • Hairs are chopped at the surface, leaving behind the root, where the hair will continue to grow. The result of the epilation doesn’t last long and you will need to shave again after a couple of days. (Which may lead to dry skin).
  • Nicks, cuts and scarring.
  • Frequent shaving can leave irritations on the skin. Of course you want to get rid of the hair in order to achieve a smooth, even look.  However, the skin may appear worse over time and can end up with nasty skin irritations and dark marks.
  • 2 words: ingrown hairs. Ingrowns appear when the hair curls back or grows inwards. It is a common problem among those who shave. As a result of ingrowns, they can be very visible, itchy and scratchy as hell. Often they lead to pimples, bumps or inflammation, so it’s advisable to avoid shaving too close to the skin. If this becomes  a constant problem, ask a dermatologist or esthetician for advice and/or treatment.

So yes, shaving is the easiest and most common hair removal method, which is why it’s highly favored and the method of choice among so many women; it’s a quick, affordable, painless option for going hairless. Who doesn’t want smooth, soft, flawlessly fab skin, especially “down there“?

Well, unfortunately, shaving isn’t the answer to hairy prayers. Reason #1, shaving only removes the hair from the skin’s surface, leaving behind the root. Alternatively, waxing (a much better choice) removes the entire follicle from the pore.

If you must, I would only recommend shaving your legs and arms…that’s it! No other parts.

Let Me De-Mystify…”Shaving makes the hair grow back thicker and faster”  FALSE. So False.

Let me clear this up right away because I can’t stand to hear people agree with this statement.

Shaving means that you simply cut off the hair at the surface of the skin. The hair will obviously regrow, this time, with a blunt tip, rather than having a natural, tapered end. This way, the darker, flat and stubbly ends will be more noticeable and unpleasant to the touch, which may appear thicker. So if it’s not removed from the root, but only at the surface, of course it will seem as if it grows back faster; it doesn’t have to start back at one.

BEWARE: Shaving is comparable to lawn mowing. Once it grows back, you get WEEDS. Think of wax as the WEED WACKER!!!

Once you wax, you never go back. #truth

With that said, leave the razors for the boys, please. Five o’clock shadows on the body have never been in style or sexy!

In the event you consider waxing, go to a local spa and inquire about their services and costs. Or you could just text, call, tweet, e-mail, FB me 🙂

Ethnic Acne

Some days, this is exactly how I feel when I’m faced with a dermal dilemma. As if to say, “Please, nobody look at me. I’m hosting a huge pimple party on my face and these are the uninvited guests.” #irked

Acne; nobody’s friend, everybody’s enemy. A very common problem every ethnicity is faced with. This subject takes precedence but if uneducated about it, one might be guilty of reckless endangerment to the face. #nevergood

One thing that makes ethnic acne different from all the others is pretty obvious; first off, its culturally specific. Secondly, darker complexions tend to suffer from inflammatory acne, which is the most common type. Surprisingly, there is an up-side to having inflammatory acne;  it’s the easiest to treat as opposed to non-inflammatory types. Luckily, we don’t suffer from nodular and cystic acne too much (these are seriously severe forms) , which will leave behind hyperpigmentation, ugly scarring and nasty little lesions.

Getting a bad case, even a minor case of bumpy breakouts is never fun. Especially when there’s a chance of minor irritations developing into bigger ones such as a keloid. #stoppickingyourface Areas prone to keloid scars are the chest and back. For these locations, effective acne prevention is paramount!

Ever notice pesky dark marks left after the acne has gone away? It was kind enough to leave you a going away present: a blemish. How un-thoughtful, ugh.

Why are you getting acne? Well there’s plenty many factors to consider.  Some of them are: genetics, diet, product usage, your environment, Rx drugs, exercise, seasonal, cycle, hormonal, dermal and epidermal variations, etc (it can get pretty intricate).  One would have to carefully analyze and think about there reasons they’re having breakouts.

How well do you know your skin? If you don’t know it too well, you oughtta pay somebody to keep you updated about your skin if you cant do it yourself.

When trying to remedy a case of acne, be sure to NOT pick at it and use a gentle method.

1. Think ahead = outline a highly effective topical regimen with products that work well for your skin type and keeping in mind that your skin is sensitive. Aggressive products will only worsen, making the acne more problematic.

2. DON’T take minocyvline; it causes hypersensitivity in African Americans for some reason.

3. Find a solution (product) containing salicylic acid (Aloe Vera plant is a pure form and is gentler and most cost effective then clinical or cosmetic products.) This is a form of exfoliation.

4. Look for a product that boasts “benzoyl peroxide” as an ingredient. Benzoyl Peroxide will aid in the inflammation, helping to reduce the size.

5. Monitor your skin regularly and start to learn it.

6. Drinking a sufficient amount of water a day really goes a long way.

7. Avoid oil based products. Look for “non-comedogenic” (this means it wont cause breakouts)

8. Apply Cortisone cream as a spot treatment to the affected areas.

Try these…

1. Cortizone 10 Plus Hydrocortisone $10

2. Mario Badescu Drying Lotion $18

 

 

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