Not For The Thick Skinned

Having worked in the beauty business for the last four years has allowed me the opportunity to meet and converse with so many beauty professionals nationwide.

I was recently enlightened by a board certified plastic and reconstructive surgeon from the Greater San Diego area, Dr. John G. Apostolides.

We had  brief  Q&A about a couple of things; I mainly picked his brain about Keloids and why women of multicultural descent are more prone to developing them post surgery, compared to those of European descent.

My exact question was:

Why is it that women with heavily pigmented complexions are more prone to keloid scarring than those of European descent?

His insight:

“Keloids are much more common in women and men of multicultural descent. Although even in those patients, true keloids are rare. Most people of multicultural descent who think they have “Keloids” actually have hypertrophic scars, which are just scars that are somewhat thicker and more raised. Keloids are scars that actually grow beyond the borders of the initial incision or injury. There are many reasons for the difference in scarring, many causes are not known. One main reason is the inner layer of skin, the dermis, in people of multicultural descent is thicker. This causes them to heal with more scar tissue. The downside is increased chance of thicker scars, although the majority of people heal normally. The upside is the thicker skin allows them to age “less” or more gracefully due to more resilient and elastic skin.”

The last sentence is a bit enlightening. If you read the entire paragraph, take note that he said “… thicker skin allows them to age “less” or more gracefully due to more resilient and elastic skin.” That’s right! You’ve heard the saying, “Minority women age more  gracefully” Yep, it’s true.

Back on track. Now, an overview…

A keloid is the term given to the prominent, irregular scar tissue, which sometimes forms after a person has suffered some sort of trauma to the skin. Usually, a “bump” appears at the site of the injury, after surgery or from another form of scarring taken place, such as a piercing.

A keloid can also develop without injury to the skin. It is definitely more common in African Americans than any other nationality, however Indians and Chinese develop keloids as well, just not as often and with thinner scarring.

Prevention, Prevention, Prevention!

One of the most important things someone can do to prevent the formation of keloids is to properly care for skin abrasions and cuts. It’s important to remember that any cut that is deep enough, requires stitches and should be stitched promptly. Many people will put a dressing over the cut and allow it to remain open. In these cases, a keloid is likely to develop  or become infected. It is important for doctors to carefully suture the wound and to avoid damage to the surrounding skin in the suturing process.

Treatment

Keloids are never life threatening. Rather, they are considered cosmetic. One’s appearance is important, however, and keloids are problematic from this perspective.

The treatment of keloids will vary. Some people believe that if the keloid is cut out all will be fine. Many times, however, the keloid will return larger than it was before. Doctors have, therefore, developed several ways to treat keloids:

1. Injection of the keloid with steroid solutions. Steroids have the effect of causing tissues to become atrophic (thin). This is a known side effect of steroids that we are using to our advantage when we inject the keloids with the steroid solution.

2. Surgery of the keloid with use of steroid injections. In this case, we still inject the keloid for several weeks prior to the surgery. Then, we surgically remove the keloid material and the wound is carefully sutured. Steroids are again injected and continued for several weeks thereafter.

3. Surgery of the keloid followed by radiation therapy. In this case, patients receive superficial radiation to the affected area. This may be a good option in some cases.

4. Lately, there has been the development of pressure to treat keloids. Scientists have developed a type of sheeting called silastic gel which is applied to the keloid and kept in place with tape. The silastic gel is applied at night for several months and it flattens the keloid.

5. Additionally, a newer therapy involving tape impregnated with steroids has been used. The tape is applied to the keloid and the steroid is slowly released. Overtime, the keloid thins.

Empowerment Points

  • Keloids are very common in Black people throughout the world.
  • Keloids usually occur after a person has suffered a cut or scratch to the skin.
  • The resulting scar tissue is thickened and often unsightly.
  • There are a variety of treatment options available and your dermatologist will be happy to discuss them with you.

Treating keloids can be challenging, but good results can be obtained!


Pregnancy & Pigment; Not Quite a Picnic

This posting is dedicated to those who have either gone through, are currently going through, or are soon to be going through it; PREGNANCY. Pigment plus pregnancy isn’t quite a picnic.

You’ve read about how expectant mothers are reported to radiate some sort of glow when carrying their bun in the oven.  Well the tabloids and beauty magazines fail to mention the realistic elements of early motherhood. It’s really more to the story than just a glow. Although, I can’t empathize with women who have or are currently carrying, but I have done alot of research and read many articles about the changes a woman’s skin goes through during pregnancy.

If you’ve been lucky enough to maintain balanced skin throughout your life, pray to the good skin gods that it stays that way for the remainder of your “hosting”. It is indeed a luxury to live a life free of breakouts and malasma. Unfortunately pregnancy may just be the milestone from hell, thanks to those rambunctious hormones; the leading culprit of physical, mental and emotional stresses. Hormones just seem to wreak havoc on your face.

In addition to facial freak-outs, other problem areas for expectant mothers tend to be near the mouth. Glycolic acid or alpha hydroxyl acids can aid in ridding the pesky problem but by all means, do avoid products containing benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid or retinoids, which should be condemned during pregnancy. Women should avoid using these types of products due to the risk of passing it into the blood stream of the mother, mixing in the breast milk, which could harm the child.

Also, something to keep in mind is that skin tends to be a bit dryer than usual too, during pregnancy, especial in the stomach area. I’ve suggested using a combination of coconut oil and olive oil all over the body (except on your face), and seem to work really well to offset dry skin (in the winter months only). 

Other areas of concern may be the abdomen or chest area where stretch marks are prone to develop. Almond and coconut oils are great choices as well as Shea and cocoa butters for stretch mark prevention. These solutions only aid in alleviating the marks, I don’t believe they can be banished entirely without invasive cosmetic procedures.

Hope this helps. 😛

Why Your Gym Should Have a Sauna

Now that the holidays are over, it’s time to re-charge and relax. The weather is cold, the temperatures are frigid and your skin‘s texture may feel dryer than usual.

I can help with that.

With it being four days into the new year, I’m sure many of you jumped on the “I’m- going-to-the-gym” bandwagon. So, if weight loss is part of your new year’s resolution, your gym membership should come with an incentive; a sauna.

If you’re gonna work that body, be sure to flex your beauty after. Believe it or not, it’s good to sweat.  In fact, try to sweat your ass off as often as possible. Whether it be during a workout or in a sauna; sweat.  Sweat is a pretty girl’s best friend, no matter how disgusting it is.  Post workout, follow up with a protein shake.

Why sauna?

Saunas have a reputation for relaxation and skin health benefits. It allows the body to detoxify itself from chemicals and toxins we take in on a daily basis.

There are different types of saunas, indeed. Top tier saunas are the infrared options.

Skin is the bodies largest organ, and it’s exposed to harsh elements all day, everyday, no matter where we are. An important skin fact is that about 30% of toxins are removed through the pores, which is done primarily through sweating. Most toxins are stored just below the skin’s surface.

Once in a sauna, it takes about two minutes to heat up the skin. This is when the detox begins to occur. Pores open, then the sweating starts. Depending on how much heat you can withstand, stay in until you sweat profusely, but if you’re in too long, you may become dizzy, so be careful. (It’s happened to me)

Another benefit is the boosting of your heart rate. Who said you can’t do cardio and not move a muscle??? #Liars. Yes, whenever the rate of your heart beat increases, it burns calories, increasing lung capacity and can may contribute to better sleeping patterns.  (The more sleep, the better.)

When in a sauna, skin heats and wants to cool itself. With the increased blood flow in the body, skin begins to receive more blood flow up to 50%. Compare this to 5-10% of normal blood flow and you can see it’s a big jump.With increased blood flow comes more oxygen and nutrients to the skin. This leaves your skin looking rejuvenated and healthy. Most sauna health benefits are tied to this increase in blood flow and overall body temperature increase.

Got acne, eczema, scrapes and cuts? Continue to read… Even if you don’t… Read it anyway…

If you suffer from any skin imperfections such as acne, eczema, and even scrapes and cuts increased blood circulation and the production of healthy blood cells can speed up the healing process. Regular sauna bathing is a good idea to aid in difficult skin conditions. Heat softens bumps, forcing them to slowly come to a head ( still refrain from picking it).

Overall, spending sometime in a sauna is a positive thing for the appearance of our skin. Whether it’s an infrared sauna, or one powered by steam the heat effects our skin in similar fashion by opening our pores and helping us to detoxify and supply more nutrients and oxygen to our skin.

The best time to sauna is after a good workout. If you’re using a public sauna, I’d suggest stripping all the way naked, but wrap yourself in a towel at least and keep your undies on. If it’s a personal sauna, go all the way bare, and use a towel for laying; the wood can get really hot. Stay in for a minimum of 20 minutes, making sure not to exceed 40 minutes for maximum benefit. I like to sauna 3-4 days a week.

Post-sauna solutions

When you step out of the sauna, make sure to cleanse and moisturize your skin. This keeps pores clear and removes harmful bacteria.

  • Body:
      • Use a gentle body cleanser; whether gel or bar soap.
      • Follow your cleanser with a body  moisturizer for continued hydration, softening and if need be, healing.
  • Face:
      • Use a cleanser to remove impurities (such as bacteria) and excess oil.  If you have drier skin or a combination complexion,use a targeted product that is appropriate for your skin type. It should gently exfoliate the skin, kill bacteria and controls oiliness.
      • Apply moisturizer.

Additional safety tips 

Here are a few tips to keep you safe when using a sauna:

    • Drink plenty of water before entering a sauna as well as after to prevent dehydration from sweating.
    • Skip the sauna if you’re sick.
    • Avoid alcohol right before, during and after a sauna session. It has a dehydrating effect and can cause your body to overheat.
    • Shower after exercise, before you enter the sauna. That’s because sauna heat can trigger yeast growth on warm, sweaty, oily skin.
    • Stay away from saunas if you have sensitive skin or certain skin conditions. Because saunas dry out the skin, they exacerbate eczema and atopic dermatitis. Also, saunas aggravate rosacea, because the heat dilates blood vessels.
    • Refrain from sauna use if you’re pregnant.

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